Athena Pappas

Category: Travel

• Adventures in Spain: Madrid Day 1

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on November 25, 2019

  
  

  

  By taking advantage of Spain’s high speed rail system, we were able to travel from Barcelona to Madrid in about two and a  half hours. We left the city as peaceful protests were turning into fiery clashes with the police that were closing down the airport and train stations. After checking in at the beautiful Radisson Blu Hotel, we set off to explore the city. The first stop? San Gines, the city’s oldest Chocolateria! In Spain, hot chocolate isn’t a powder poured over hot milk like we’re used to. It is an incredibly rich, thick chocolate sauce that is served with fresh churros for dipping. At San Gines, the line was out the door, but moved quickly. Inside was a chaotic scene. You order from the counter, then scramble to find a seat. Waiters carry trays stacked high with cups of chocolate and churros for the masses of patiently waiting people. It was well worth the wait!

  

  

  

  There were plenty more foodie sites to discover in Madrid. Around the corner from San Gines is the San Miguel Market. Built in 1916, the market was completely revamped about ten years ago to feature gourmet food stalls and tapas. From fresh seafood to jamon, there are plenty of treats here for everyone…even vermouth on tap!

  

  Thoroughly fueled with tapas, we headed to the Plaza Mayor for our three-hour Sandeman’s Free Tour of Madrid. We were lucky to have a great guide who was very knowledgeable about the city’s history.

  

  From the Plaza, we headed through the city streets. Even in October, the tourist hotspots were busy.

  

  Our first stop was the oldest restaurant in the world. Botin has been serving suckling pig since 1725 and is even mentioned in a Hemingway novel.

  

  

  

  Our guide explained the different styles of architecture that can be seen throughout the city in between tales of Madrid and Spanish history.

  From our hilltop vantage point, we were able to get some great pictures of the Catedral de la Almudena.

  

  Because the cathedral took so long to complete, there is an unusual mix of architecture styles.

  

  Although the mix of neoclassical, neo-gothic, and neo-Romanesque make for a strange mix, they sort of harmonize together.

  

  Across from the cathedral is the Royal Palace of Madrid. We would be touring it another day, but getting an overview of the history of the Spanish royal family on our tour really helped give it context. Our tour wrapped up outside the Royal Opera House.

  

  

  

  After all of that walking, a siesta was much needed. That evening, we explored central Madrid. I really wanted to check out the craft beer scene, so we stopped in Fogg Bar Birras & Cheese. Each brew came with a free tapa, but we couldn’t pass up a local cheese platter.

  For dinner, we headed to Revoltosa, which was nearby. This airy gastropub was a great way to end the evening. We shared some grilled veggies, a nice change of pace after all the ham, and grilled squid with black risotto rice. Overall, a great start to the Madrid leg of our journey!
  Posted in Adventures, Travel | 1 Comment | Tagged Adventure, Madrid, Spain, Travel

• Summer Vist to Charleston

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on September 25, 2019

  

  

  Although late August is the time to escape the city, it comes with one very travel prohibitive drawback…evening thunderstorms. Attempting to fly down to Charleston, South Carolina for the weekend, I was faced with this incoming tempest. Needless to say, my flight was canceled.

  

  

  Despite the travel setbacks and delays, I eventually made it down to Charleston (NY -> DC -> Atlanta -> Charleston, whew!). Looking to do something a little different, we signed up for Coastal Expedition’s Folly Creek Sunset Kayak tour. Waiting to get started, we watched fisherman unloading their catch of the day to sell. And then, off we went to kayak the creek.

  

  

  One of the major draws of the creek kayak tour is the opportunity to get close to the native wildlife of the low country. This includes swooping gulls diving to catch their fishy prey.

  

  

  

  

  Even more exciting than the bird-watching opportunities was getting very, very close to a pod of dolphins. This group was hunting right before dusk with their baby dolphins in tow. It was hard to get a good picture, but the surfaced so close we could almost touch them. Baby dolphins have to be taught how to breath using the blowhole, so the youngest will surface to get more oxygen. We saw them breaching the surface!

  

  

  The great thing about having a guide is both their knowledge of the history of the area and the wildlife along with the fact that they will keep you from getting lost (shout out to our great guide, Brodie!). He really tailored our time on the creek to our interests (seeing more dolphins and bird facts along with some history).

  

  Although the dolphins were incredible, the main event was technically the sunset. We were able to position ourselves perfectly to see it dip below the horizon. After that, we had enough paddling and headed for shore.

  

  

  

  

  And for dinner…we cooked up some of that fresh fish from the seafood shack! A simple pan-fry transformed this fish into a delicious meal.

  

  

  When flying back to New York, I always try to get a window seat on the left side. That is where you can get the best view of the city as the plane enters its decent. The sunset view only made it a more spectacular welcome home.

  Posted in Adventures, Charleston, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Charleston, Summer, Travel

• Adventures in Iceland: Part V

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on June 19, 2019

  

  

  Our final day in Iceland before heading back on the evening flight to New York was spent exploring Reykjavik. I wish I had more time to explore this capital city, but we managed to do a lot in just one day. There are many different street art murals and touristy gift shops lining the streets.

  

  The Sun Voyager statue is a striking monument on the waterfront. Although it does look like a Viking ship,  it is actually a visual ode to dreams and the sun.

  

  

  Another must-see locale of Reykjavik is the Icelandic Phallological  Museum. The Icelanders are known for their unusual sense of humor. From whale phallus to tiny mice, this museum is jam packed with specimens.

  

  

  

  

  Here is a variety of what the museum has to offer. I am next to a whale penis for scale. I highly recommend the audio tour if you have the time.

  

  

  For lunch, we had an Icelandic staple…the hot dog! These are hot dogs that are made from Icelandic lamb as well as pork and beef. Of course, you have to try it with the traditional toppings: served in a warm, steamed bun, raw white onions, crispy fried onions, ketchup, sweet brown mustard, and a remoulade sauce. So delicious I had two!

  Afterwards, we stopped for a quick drink at the Icelandic Craft bar. I tried the Brother’s Brewery Gölli IPA. Named after a folk song character, this local craft beer was quite nice: light, grapefruity hops.

  

  These cartoon vikings, created by Ninna Thorarinsdottir, can be found everywhere! The viking eating an ice cream cone in winter is emblematic of the Icelandic sense of humor. Souvenirs with her designs on them were a great buy to take home to friends and family (I even got a few post cards to frame and put up in my apartment).

  

  

  Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland, is a Lutheran church and a symbol of the city. In front of the magnificent towering church is the statue of Leif Erickson, the Norse explorer.

  

  Here I am with Leif! Even in the sunny early October morning, it was pretty chilly out!

  

  

  Our final Reykjavik stop before heading to the airport was actually a British import, the Brewdog Brewery (there is also a location in Ohio…but we are unlikely to visit there). It’s a little bit like going to a Hard Rock Cafe of beer, but it was nice place to grab some pub food and sample their brews. It’s a pretty IPA forward sampler…among the ones I tried were the Dead Pony Club (IPA) and the Elvis Juice (a grapefruit infused IPA).

  And that’s the end of our week long road trip through Iceland! It is a beautiful country filled with so many natural wonders.

  Posted in Adventures, Iceland, Restaurants, Review, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Brewries, Iceland, Travel, Vikings

• Adventures in Iceland: Part IV

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on June 4, 2019

  

  

  After our first night in the capital city of Reykjavik, our next road adventure was the Golden Circle Day trip. These are some of the most famous sights in Iceland given their nearby location, ease of accessibility, and historic significance. Heading out of the city, there was snow on ground even in early October.

  

  The first stop was Þingvellir National park. Here, you can walk through the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This is the only place where the rift is visible above sea level.

  

  

  It isn’t just geography that makes Þingvellir unique. There is a rich history of the area (and several car parks).

  

  This is the site of Iceland’s first parliament of the Norse settlers around 930 AD. Now it is packed with tour groups. This site is where many historic events of Icelandic history occurred throughout the centuries. In more recent history, this is where Iceland declared their independence from Denmark in 1944.

  

  There is little left of the ancient settlements in the valley.

  

  Winding our way through the park, we followed the water to find…

  

  

  A waterfall at the end of the path! Öxaráfoss provided a beautiful photo opportunity.

  

  

  Here are more shots of the Þingvellir landscape. There are plenty of hiking trails to explore here and even diving in the clear, deep ravines (we opted to skip this).

  

  

  The next stop on the Golden Circle tour is the Geyser Geothermal area. Did you know that the geysers here are what inspired the word geyser? It comes from an old Norse word.

  

  

  From little bubbling geysers to THE Geyser that all geysers were named after,  this park was really spectacular.

  

  

  Some erupt with more regularity than others, but it is not hard to see why people have been coming here for a thousand years to behold this rare phenomenon.

  

  

  The next stop on our mini-road trip was one of my favorite on the trip. If you guessed a Floss…you are right! The Gulfoss  is a massive, multi-tiered waterfall. There are two walking trails along the Hvita River, the lower once was mostly ice covered so we took the upper, easier route. You can see the lower route in the picture below…while we might have gotten closer it wasn’t worth the risk of slipping on the ice.

  

  Here is my picture of the falls, I loved it so much I have it framed at home! The power of the melting glacier water is an awe-inspiring.

  

  

  All of that sight seeing worked up an appetite! On our way back to Reykjavik we stopped at the Olverk Pizza and Brewery.

  

  

  In addition to food fired pizzas, they also brew their own beer onsite…using geothermal power! I, of course, had to try a flight of their very tasty beers.

  Having seen the highlights of the Ring Road, we headed back to Reykjavik. That night, we went to the Blue Lagoon for a little geothermal bathing. I highly recommend getting at least the second tier admission that lets you skip to the front of the line (it also comes with flip flops, a robe, and an extra mud mask). We booked after dark because that was the only time that would work with our schedule. It was less picturesque in the dark, but it was still totally worth going for the experience if you have time. There is a swim up bar (your first drink is included in admission), grottoes,  bridges, the water is warm and relaxing. The mud masks were also fun. Overall, it is incredibly touristy and not cheap, but the experience was so wonderful that I didn’t mind!

  Posted in Iceland, Restaurants, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Golden Circle, Iceland, Travel

• Adventures in Austin: Emmer & Rye

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on May 29, 2019

  

  

  A few weekends ago, former ADA Jared Mogil and I were in Austin, Texas for a wedding. As our Saturday evening did not have any wedding festivities, we decided to head out to Rainey Street to explore the city. What is really neat about this area of town is that all of the bars and restaurants are built in former houses. Most of the bars have fantastic outdoor spaces, and there you can find a fantastic restaurant: Emmer & Rye.

  

  

  What makes Emmer & Rye so unique is that nearly every ingredient is sourced from within 100 miles of the restaurant, everything they can make in house they do. Their cocktail list is creative, and they have a plethora of natural and organic wines. The menu focuses on small plates, but several times during your dinner service a cart comes around with dim sum-like offerings. Our first selections from the cart were oysters and tartar.

  

  

  For our first course, we had the red snapper (that’s what is nestled below the cucumbers) and the King Trumpet Mushrooms. Although the snapper was very delicious, I think the mushrooms might have been my favorite dish of the evening. They were robust with a miso flavor that added a great tangy umami flavor to the dish.

  

  

  Eaten before it could be photographed, we also had their homemade bread and butter from the dim sum cart. The service the entire meal was impeccable, we received detailed descriptions of the food and its origins along with insightful recommendations. For our next course, we had the ravioli stuffed with ricotta, potato, turnip and topped lamb’s quarter. This dish was rich and flavorful. On the right is the pork loin, which was also delicious.

  

  

  For dessert, we went with the chocolate mousse. But this wasn’t just a normal chocolate mousse…the first layer was popped sorghum. Like corn, this grain can be popped to create an edible topping. There was also a layer of egg white ice cream and mole. This made for a fascinating mixture of sweet and savory for dessert.

  As the menu at Emmer & Rye is always changing, I would highly recommend making a reservation here if you are in Austin. Both their menu and philosophy are ambitious and make for a delicious meal.

   

  Posted in Restaurants, Review, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Austin, restaurant, Review, Texas

• Adventures in Iceland: Part III

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on May 22, 2019

  

  

  On the third day of our Icelandic adventure, we returned to Jökulsárlón glacial lake in order to see it in the bright sunlight.

  

  

  With brighter light, the blue color of the iceberg glaciers is even more stunning.

  

  With global warming, the start of the glaciers can be seen receding more and more every year.

  

  After our second visit to the lake, we began our journey back to Reykjavik, which was about a five hour drive. The scenery is breathtaking. There were plenty of places to pull of the road for pictures.

  

  Here is another place we had to circle back for so I could take a picture!

  

  It wouldn’t be a day in Iceland without a waterfall!

  

  

  After checking into our Reykjavik hotel (The Swan House, which I very much recommend. Nice, clean spacious rooms), we explored the city. My favorite stop was the Lebowski Bar, themed after the Cohen Brothers movie. Packed with American kitsch decor and bowling memorabilia, they have an extensive menu of White Russians (aka Caucasians). I had one topped with Cocopuff cereal! If you are a fan of the movie, you have to make a stop at the Lebowski bar.

  Posted in Adventures, Iceland, Travel | 0 Comments

• Adventures in Iceland: Part I

  Posted at 10:00 am by athenapappas, on May 1, 2019

  

  

  Taking advantage of super cheap airfare on (the now defunct) WOW air and a long holiday weekend, we spent a few days this past October in beautiful Iceland! A quick six hour jaunt from JFK, and we landed in Reykjavik, grabbed our rental car, and hit the road.

  

  

  Driving down the south coast of Iceland, the landscape is incredibly striking. There are plenty of places to pull off the famed Ring Road to snap photos. Our first night would be spent in the town of Vik, so essentially we were road tripping and stopping at various sites along the way.

  

  First up was the Seljalandsfoss waterfall. You will see the word “foss” a lot in Iceland as it means waterfall.

  

  

  Aside from being a natural wonder, what makes Seljalandsfoss unique is that the hiking trail wraps around the back of the waterfall. So yes, (should out to my Jungle Cruise fans)…you can see the backside of water!

  

  

  As we ventured farther from Reykjavik, the terrain started to change. Occasionally, we would pass a small town.

  

  

  Next stop on the south coast tour, the Skogafoss waterfall (seeing a pattern here?). The amazing thing about Iceland is that each stop and each site seemed to top the one before. You could get really close to the falls by walking up the black sand beach.

  

  Because of the mist the waterfall generates, you can almost always see at least one, and sometimes a double, rainbow.

  

  

  Although October doesn’t have the endless days that summer in Iceland does, we still had plenty of day light to squeeze in another site before checking into our hotel in Vik. The Solheimajokull is the outlet glacier of the inland Mýrdalsjökull icecap. Unfortunatly because of global warming, it is easy to see how far the glacier has recessed over the past few years. There are also glacier climbing tours available, but we passed on those. The blue glow of the floating ice pieces were really neat to see.

  

  We spent the night in the town of Vik at the Hotel Kria. The hotel was very nice with a breakfast included in the price (take advantage of these, food is very expensive in Iceland!). For dinner, we headed to the Smidjan Brugghaus, Vik’s very own brew pub. Although we had fairly generic pub food, it was great to try a variety of craft Icelandic beers. Next week…we head further down the south coast.

  Posted in Adventures, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Europe, Iceland, Nature, Ring Road, Travel, Waterfalls

• Adventures in Greece: Part VIII

  Posted at 10:02 am by athenapappas, on April 24, 2019

  

  

  After spending about a week island hopping (from Santorini to Ios to Naxos and Paros), I headed up to the northern region of Greece known as Epirus to visit family. This rugged mountainous region is located near Albania and is where my grandparents were both from. The landscape here is breathtaking.

  

  

  One of the stops I made was to the church of my great-grandfather. In the Orthodox faith, priest can be married as long as they are married before they are ordained. In fact, the Pap prefix in a Greek last name means that you had a priest in your family.

  

  

  Inside the church, the iconography is faded, but you can still see the craftsmanship that went into even this simple village church. 

  A common traffic jam in the village…sheep crossing!

  

  Although my grandparents both came from very tiny villages, I also have relatives in the coastal town of Preveza. This area is notable for being near the site of the Battle of Actium in which Mark Anthony was defeated. This Venetian clocktower has been the emblem of the city since the 1700s.

  

  Walking along the quiet streets, there are plenty of cafes and small stores to stop in. Because Preveza is a coastal town, there is also great seafood!

  

  After a few days up north, I headed back to Athens for one last night before flying home. I still had a few souvenirs to find, so back to the Plaka. The Tower of the Winds, above, is a really fascinating building. Each motif represents a different wind direction and the temperament the ancient Greeks gave it.  

  As night started to fall, my time in Greece was coming to a close. Here is the view of the Acropolis from Monastraki Square.

  Final sunset on my Greece trip.

  Posted in Adventures, Greece, Travel | 0 Comments | Tagged Greece, Travel

• Adventures in Greece: Part VII

  Posted at 9:00 am by athenapappas, on April 10, 2019

  
  

  

  From the island of Ios, we set sail for Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades islands. Once a cultural center, the island is now a popular tourist destination. Although not as well known as the party-island Mykonos or the geographically unique Santorini, Naxos is beautiful in its own right. The streets of Naxos town are picturesque as they wined their way up to the Venetian Castro at the center of the old town.

  

  

  The (slight) hike to the castle is well worth it. Take time to explore the shops, everything from touristy knickknacks to antiques, along the way. There is also a small archaeology resume at the castle, but you can also explore around the outside.

  

  

  The symbol of Naxos is the remains of the never completed Temple of Apollo. The landmark you see standing is the Portara, or the lintel of the temple.

  

  

  

  Welcoming visitors as they arrive on the island, the Temple is prime for sunset viewing. The temple itself was never completed but the framed lintel stands as a reminder of Naxos’ power in the region.

  

  

  After watching the sunset, we wandered down the streets to Taverna Apostolis. This restaurant has a beautiful courtyard for warm weather dining. We started the meal wtih fresh baked bread and olive oil. This was followed by a Greek salad was served in a fresh bread bowl!

  

  

  It wouldn’t be a Greek island adventure without a plethora of sea creatures. We also had the grilled octopus appetizer, soft and succulent. For my main course, I had the pasta with prawns, which did not disappoint. A delicious meal al fresco.

  

  

  The final stop on our island tour was Paros. One of the sites central on the island is the church of the Panagia Ekatontapiliani, dating back to the Byzantine era. Lemon trees dot the courtyard.

  

  The streets of the quiet island can only be described as picture-perfect (photo credit: Theresa Lloyd).

  

  

  Along the main streets of Paros, you can find plenty of cafes and beach areas for relaxing. 

  Sail boats bring in the fresh catch for the evening’s meal.

  

  

  There are plenty of places along the coast to watch the sunset.

  

  

  The island of Paros is a great stop while visiting the Cycladic island. From there, we set sail back to Athens!

  Posted in Greece, Review, Travel | 1 Comment | Tagged Greece, island, Naxos, Travel

• Adventures in Greece: Part VI

  Posted at 9:00 am by athenapappas, on March 27, 2019

  

  

  From Santorini, we traveled by ferry to the island of Ios. As we approached the island, the cliff-side landscape came into view.

  

  

  The ferry boat arrives into the port, but the Chora, main town, ascends up the slope of the island. The Liostasi Hotel, where we stayed, was an absolute dream in terms of amenities. While our room was modest, it was very affordable.

  

  

  Between the views and the pool, I would highly recommend the Liostasi Hotel.

  

  

  Although we really took our time on Ios as a day to relax after the whirlwind that was Santorini, we did walk through the main island town. Typical of the Greek islands, there was a white-washed church with blue domes. Overall, I found Ios pretty underwhelming. It’s main draw really is the nightlife…which doesn’t even get going until June…and after midnight. A college student might find it appealing to party all night followed by laying on the beach all day, but that isn’t what we were looking for this trip.

  

  Despite the fact that the island itself didn’t have a lot to do, it was nice to take a break and relax by the pool for a day.

  And what would an island day be without a drink at sunset? The Blue Island is the Greek version of a Corona, light and refreshing.

  

  

  

  The hotel also boasted one of the best restaurants on the island, Grandma’s. The restaurant space itself is outside by the pool, but this was hardly a poolside snack bar. The seafood was fresh and delicious and the service was impeccable. It was well worth the splurge for dinner.

   

  Posted in Adventures, Greece, Travel | 1 Comment | Tagged Greece, Ios, island, Pool, spring, Vacation

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